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Copyright for this work rests with John Creig
and it is used here with permission and should not be reproduced without Johns permission.
Author:
John
Greig
Toyota Land Cruiser
Club of Australia - Sydney
A comprehensive review of the
permits required to access national parks, remote areas and indigenous
lands.
Table of Contents:
Do I Need a Permit?
So where do you apply for
permits?
Western Australia
Northern Territory
South Australia
Queensland
Tasmania
Victoria
New South Wales
General
Do I Need a Permit?
If any decent road map of outback Australia is examined, numerous
tracks will be marked as “Permit Required”. Other tracks are marked as “Private Road”
or “Aboriginal Business
Road” and even “Restricted
Access”. Yet others are marked
“For Use in Emergencies Only”, or “Wet Weather Access
Only”. So what does all
this mean, and what ramifications do such notations hold for outback
travelers? Generally, it can be assumed that if any track is marked with
any of the above notations then that track is NOT a “public
road” and access is not generally available. Thus the track can only be used under the
conditions noted on it. For example,
tracks marked “For Use in Emergencies Only”, may only be used
in an “emergency” situation.
Equally, tracks marked “Wet Weather Access Only” may
only be used in wet weather.
Normally, this latter situation will apply when the track you may
otherwise be traveling on has become impassable or has been closed. If the track you were intending to take
has been “closed” due to rain, then the local road reports will
normally also note whether or not any “wet weather only” track
is open and passable. Conditions
such as these are generally imposed
by
the Local Government entity responsible for the road. The reasons for
imposing such restrictions can be many and varied. For example, the road surface may be such
that constant, general use will very quickly deteriorate the surface, and
thus when the circumstances necessitating use of the track arise, it may be
found to be impassable simply as a consequence of the volume of traffic
that had previously used it. However,
if the track had otherwise remained almost unused, its surface may have
been preserved in such a state as to readily facilitate the passage of just
a few vehicles under the
conditions allowed. In other cases
“emergency” or “wet weather” tracks are simply not
maintained at all, and thus regular traffic could render such tracks
impassable. Road maintenance costs
in the bush are very high. Other tracks are on private property and may not
be used except under the conditions noted on the map. In those situations, the landowner is
saying that general access to the track is forbidden, however in an
emergency situation, or if you find yourself on a track which becomes
impassable due to rain, then you may use the particular track under the
situations noted. Such usage of
course would be minimal, and thus the condition of the track may not be
adversely affected. Private
landowners are responsible for the maintenance of their own tracks, and do not
like being put to unnecessary expense. In that same vein, there are a few
tracks around, which whilst actually being a “private track”
located on private property, are none the less open for normal traffic,
with some limitations. For example,
a size of vehicle or weight limitation may be applied. If such restrictions are simply ignored
by travelers and damage to the track results, which then costs the
landowner time and money to rectify, there is a big risk that the landowner
will simply close the track. Remember also that driving around a
“Road Closed” sign anywhere can result in a very large fine being
imposed. Many
local
government entities in outback Australia have adopted a very
aggressive approach to road closures.
As soon as it starts to rain, if there is any prospect of the rain
being heavy and/or prolonged, then almost inevitably up go the “road
closed” signs on many dirt roads and tracks. If you are in a town,
and the roads have been closed due to rain, or you are traveling on a
track, and come to another which you intended to take and find that it has
been closed, then it is always worthwhile contacting the local police or
council, or the local Roads Authority.
In many such situations, the road may be closed to heavy vehicles,
caravans and say, two wheel drive vehicles.
However, it may be open, with care, to 4WD vehicles not towing a caravan
or camper. We have experienced that
exact situation on a number of occasions.
Equally, we have experienced situations where a particular road was
closed, however that road gave access to another track which had not been
closed. Access was being allowed up
the closed road, but only to the turn off to the other open track. So it is always worthwhile having a talk
to one of the responsible organizations to ascertain the actual situation.
Tracks marked “Aboriginal
Business Road” are generally tracks which
have been put in by various aboriginal community corporations to facilitate
travel between communities. Permits
may or may not be issued to transit such tracks. It may very much depend on
your reasons for requiring the transit, where you are coming from and/or
where you are going, and also whether there are any ceremonies or rituals
taking place on or near to the track or in communities. The same situation
normally applies to roads within aboriginal lands marked as
“restricted access”.
There are also a number of “aboriginal business roads”
that do not actually appear on commercial maps, but are shown on “mud
maps” issued to inhabitants by the community. So if you do come across a properly
constructed track which does not appear on maps, it will in all probability
be such a track, and should be treated accordingly. Most tracks marked as
“Permit Required” pass through
aboriginal lands. As such, they are
essentially on private property, and the traditional owners may or may not
approve of access being granted.
And, just because a track is marked as “Permit Required”
is no guarantee that a permit will be granted on application. The
conditions under which permits are granted may also vary, and permission
may be withdrawn at any time, or access simply barred without notice. For example, if there has been a death in
a community, or a ceremony or ritual is taking place somewhere along or
near a track, then access may be barred, even though a permit had been
granted earlier. You should always
very carefully read the conditions attaching to the issue and usage of
any
permit. Also ensure that you obey
all requirements, including any directions issued to you whilst on or
accessing such tracks. Generally, with aboriginal lands, there are two
types of permit issued. The first is
a “transit” permit, which simply allows you to transit through
the area. You may or may not be
allowed to stop on the way, or to leave the track, or to camp. Generally, the length of the track
involved will dictate many such circumstances. Whilst you may not be aware
of them, there may be literally
dozens of sacred sites along a track.
A stop, and a camp fire, or the moving of some rocks to facilitate a
tent site, could well be interfering with a sacred site. Over the years, such interference,
whether intentional or not, has resulted in a number of locations and
tracks now falling into the category where permits are simply not issued to
travelers. In general, when you apply for a transit permit, you normally
need to nominate a 3 day “window” within which your travel is
to take place. However, that is not
always the case. The application
form will normally be quite clear in relation to any such requirement.
The second type of permit is one to “access and remain on,
aboriginal land”. Such a
permit would normally be applicable if you needed to actually visit a
community and/or remain overnight, for example. Whilst applications for
permits are generally made to the responsible Land Council, the Councils
are simply acting on, and carrying out the instructions of the
“traditional owners” (sometimes referred to simply as T.O.’s) who live along the tracks, whether in
communities or on outstations. And
there may be dozens of such traditional owners. Thus it is their wishes, and the conditions
they impose, that dictate to the staff of a Land Council, whether or not a
permit may be issued. It is also
surprising, but in many situations your permit application is physically
sent off to one or more traditional owners, for their personal consideration,
rather than simply being processed by the Land Council. Regrettably, over
the years, there have been too many irresponsible travelers who have
ignored permit requirements, and have simply traveled over tracks without
one. The end result has been a
number of locations which have simply been shut to visitors as a
consequence of persons ignoring the normal protocols. You
would
also be surprised at how well the bush telegraph actually operates in
outback Australia. A lot of people seem to know whether or
not you have a permit. The recent “intervention” in the Northern Territory
by the previous Federal Government, (which has to date been continued by
the
new
Government) has changed absolutely nothing as far as travelers are
concerned in accessing tracks and gaining permits. It was apparently intended to do so, but
the appropriate “determinations” under the new legislation had
not been made by the previous Government by the time the most recent elections
were called. Currently, the needed
“determinations” appear unlikely to be made by the new
Government. Some changes were made
by the previous Government in relation to accessing
communities; however it appears that the new Government is going to abolish
those changes with some possible exceptions. But as far as traveler’s access to
communities, tracks and aboriginal lands is concerned, nothing has
changed. The Central Land Council is
thus asking that travelers apply for permits in exactly the same manner as
prior to the “intervention”. Some aboriginal communities are
noted on maps as “closed communities”. This normally means that they are not
open to travelers, and have no facilities whatsoever available to
travelers. However, we have noticed in recent times, that a few
communities, which were “closed”, have now changed their
philosophy, and offer some limited facilities to travelers. Thus, if in the planning stages of your
trip you think you may need to access
a
community for some reason, and it is marked on your map as
“closed” then I would be making a telephone call to that
community to check on that status.
If it is still “closed” then your planning processes
will need to be revised to take account of that situation. And
notwithstanding all of the information above, if you intend to drive through
or visit any community or place on land marked as aboriginal land, and
there appears to be no limitations or conditions on any of the tracks
within that area, I would still be telephoning the community in your
planning stage to check on the situation.
It is cheap to do so, and polite, and you never know what good
information you might gain.
The costs of permits vary significantly. The majority are
free; others may cost an application fee varying between $2 and $5. Yet
others can be very expensive. For
example a permit to access Surveyor-General’s Corner will currently
cost you $100 per vehicle and $20 per person, whilst a single vehicle
permit to access any of the numerous aboriginal sites along the Canning
Stock Route will cost you $50.
Access and camping fees in some areas of aboriginal land on Cape York vary between $5 and $30 per night per
vehicle, or per person, whilst others are only $30 per week per vehicle.
Permits to access a range of locations on the Gove Peninsula
can cost between $15 per week and $15 per night per vehicle in addition to
the $35 cost of your Recreation Permit, but the permit to transit the Central Arnhem Road
is free. You do need to do your
homework. Permits to visit some
communities
are
only available from the local community itself, e.g., some communities on
the western side of Cape York, communities near Cape
Arnhem and on the Gove Peninsula,
and some communities in the Kimberley
region. However, the permits to access the tracks leading to some of those
areas are issued by the Land Councils or Government Departments. It is
always worth doing your homework well before you intend to leave, and
applying for the permits that you will need well in advance. Some permits can take up to 2 months and
more to be issued or refused, whilst others may only take a few
days. And don’t forget, if the track you
want to travel extends into two states or across two Land Council areas you
will probably need a permit for both areas.
So ensure that you leave yourself plenty of time to gain them. There are some great websites around,
such as Exploroz, (www.exploroz.com.au)
and generally the large scale HEMA maps have excellent information on them
regarding access and
permits. And remember, always obey
the conditions imposed, and thus ensure that those people coming after you
retain their access, or improve it as a consequence of your good, exemplary
behaviour.
So where do you apply for permits?
The following information is provided to assist you with the gaining
of permits for your travels. It is
not a totally
comprehensive guide. It has however,
endeavoured to pick up on most of the areas that four wheel drive
tourists tend to visit. For those
areas not covered,
you will need to undertake your own research. Again, the Exploroz
web site can be invaluable for such purposes as can the large scale Hema maps and contact with the appropriate Land
Council/s, National Parks Service and/or nearby towns and communities.
Western
Australia
Generally, most transit permits for aboriginal lands are able to be
issued by the Aboriginal Lands Trust of WA.
The Trust is a part of the Department of Indigenous Affairs. Applications can be made on-line at www.dia.wa.gov.au
and simply follow the prompts. The
Trust can be contacted at:
The Permits Officer,
Aboriginal Lands Trust, PO
Box 7770, Cloisters
Square, Perth, WA 6850.
Telephone (08) 9235 8000 or
Fax (08) 9235 8088.
Central Reserves Area (which extends some little way over the
borders into both NT and SA), includes:
The Great Central Road, Gunbarrel Highway and the abandoned section of the Old Gunbarrel Highway, Giles-Mulga
Park Road from Warakurna to Wingellina and Surveyor General’s Corner, the
Gary Highway, Gary Junction Road and
the Sandy Blight Junction Track. It
also includes the Docker
River area (but not the Community)
which is actually in NT. (Docker River is one of those areas where you
will need two permits. The WA side
takes you essentially from the Docker River Community,
west across the border and on down
the Great Central Road. For the NT side, see NT below). Apply to the Ngaanyatjarra
Council, P.O. Box 644,
Alice Springs, NT
0871. They are located at Shop 6, 56-58 Head Street, Alice Springs. Telephone (08) 8950 1711. Fax is (08) 8953 1892. Even though the vast majority of the
Central Reserves Area is in WA, the Land Council office is located in Alice Springs. Permits for Surveyor-General’s
Corner are $100 per
vehicle plus $20 per person, but you do get an escort/ guide
to take you out there and tell you a bit about the history of the Corner.
The Sandy Blight Junction Track and the Gary Junction Road are two other
examples of tracks where two permits are required. One permit is required for the parts that
fall within Western Australia (Ngaanyatjarra Council) and another for the parts that
fall within the Northern
Territory, (Central Land Council). Access to the
Sandy Blight Junction Track has recently been reviewed and permits to
transit that part of the track which falls within the NT are once again
being issued by the Central Land Council. Permits are not being issued for
travel on the Gunbarrel Highway between
Jackie Junction and the Heather Highway/Gunbarrel Highway
intersection. Access to/from the Gunbarrel
Highway must be via the Heather Highway. Very special conditions apply for travel
along the
Abandoned Section of the Old Gunbarrel Highway between Warakurna
and Warburton. Details may be
obtained from either the Ngaanyatjarra Council or
the WA Department of Indigenous Affairs website. If you wish to access
actual communities, then it is also best to ring that community and speak
to them direct regarding any requirements. Inquiries from the Kimberley
Land Council at Derby, telephone (08) 9193 1118, showed that if you wished to
visit any communities in the Kimberley, the best way is simply to report in
to the Community on the day of your
visit, (but not weekends), and purchase a permit on the day. The Kimberley Land Council’s
Broome Office telephone is (08) 9193 6199. To visit Kalumburu
you will need to gain a Permit via the Aboriginal Lands Trust in Perth. This can be done on-line, and is free.
(See above). This Permit however,
only gives you
permission to enter the Kalumburu Reserve. Once you get to the Kalumburu
Community you will need a Kalumburu Recreation
Entry Permit. These can be obtained, at a cost of $35 per vehicle, from the
Kalumburu Aboriginal Corporation Office, the Kwini Store or the Kalumburu
Catholic Mission. Alternatively, you
can apply by post to the Kalumburu Aboriginal
Corporation, enclosing a cheque for $35 made out
to the same body. Allow at least a month for the permit to be returned to
you. The Corporation’s telephone number is 08) 9161 4300 and the fax is: (08) 9161 4331. Their email is kac@bigpond.com. Fuel is not available in Kalumburu over the weekend. The Corporation Office is also closed
over the weekend. Once you arrive at Kalumburu
there is only one place to camp in the Community itself, and that is at the
Catholic Mission. It’s a very
cool, grassed and shaded camp site with good showers and toilets. Well
worth the modest charge. Camping on
the coast is only available at Honeymoon
Bay, McGowan’s
and Pago. These camping areas are all operated by members of the Community,
and offer very basic camping only at about $10 per person per day. You can also camp within Drysdale
National Park. Access is through the Carson River
Pastoral Station which is operated by the Community. A Recreation Entry Permit is required to
access any of the camping areas and to gain access through Carson River
Pastoral Station. Access to Truscott Airfield; west of the King Edward
River and to Winanghie Beach is prohibited. If you wish to
visit Cape Leveque contact the Broome Visitors
Information Centre on (08) 9192 2222.
Whilst you don’t need a permit to visit the Cape,
you do need booked accommodation to enter the area. The Visitors Centre can make a booking
for you at the camping area at the Cape,
which is highly advisable.
To drive the track which parallels the Hamersley Iron Railway Line
from Tom Price to Dampier you MUST apply IN PERSON at any of: the Tom Price Tourist Information Service
(08) 9188 1112; the Karratha Visitor Centre (08)
9144 4600; the Roebourne Visitor Centre (08) 9182
1060 or the Pannawonica Office & Library (08)
9184 1038. You MUST do this in
person as you will be required to sit through about a 15 minute video which
mainly concentrates on the rail safety aspects of the trip, and then you
will be issued with your permit.
Telfer Mine Road:
To use this road you don’t
need a permit, but you do need to notify the Mine Manager of your
intentions. A few weeks before your
visit write a letter to: The Village Manager, Newcrest Mining, Telfer, WA 6762, informing the Manager of who you are;
where and how you can be contacted; the numbers and details of vehicles
including: make, colour, registration number and
State of registration; driver and passengers names; and the likely date/s
of being on their road; your direction of travel and destination. Don’t forget to thank them for the
access. You will have to stop at a
Security Check Point.
Trans Continental Railway: You can now only follow the rail line from Kalgoorlie
to Rawlinna.
It is illegal to travel east of Rawlinna
and absolutely no permits are being issued.
In South Australia
you are also permitted to travel the few kilometres
along the rail line past Tarcoola to pick up Googs Track. The
track beside the rail line is now on private property. This was a result of
the corporatisation of Australian National
Railways. Regrettably, there had
been far too many instances of travelers breaking down, or needing help,
and they were, incredibly, flagging down the trains! Management have now
simply barred access and will have transgressors dealt with as
trespassers. The fine can be quite
hefty. You have been warned!.
You should also bear in mind that many WA National Parks charge both
an entry fee and a nightly camping fee.
Quite a number of those fees are payable by way of self registration
when you enter the park. Other parks
have ranger stations to which you must report, and others are controlled by
the very friendly, effective and efficient “Park Hosts”
system. If you are going to be in WA
for some time, you might like to consider gaining a “WA All Parks
Pass” before you go. This Pass
in 2008 cost just
$75 or $50 if you have a concession card and gives you access to all
WA National Parks as many times as you like within a 12 month period. The Pass does not however cover any
camping fees which may be payable. The Pass is obtainable on-line from Exploroz,
or from the WA Department of Environment and Conservation direct at PO Box 104,
Bentley Delivery Centre, WA 6983.
Telephone (08) 9334 0333 or fax (08) 9334 0498, and ask for a
Customer Service Officer.
Canning Stock Route: From April, 2006, the holding of an appropriate
Permit has become necessary if you wish to visit any of the very numerous
Aboriginal Sites located either on, or adjacent to, the Canning Stock Route. There are a whole series of such sites.
Essentially, all of the land adjacent to the Canning Stock Route Reserve
between Well 5 and Well 40 has been granted to the Martu
people under the Native Title Act, 1993, and is now restricted access
land. So in essence, if you wish to
leave the actual Canning Stock
Route vehicular track, a permit to do so is
now required. And, even though some
of the sites are actually located within the Stock Route Reserve, they are
nonetheless registered and protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act,
1972, and as such, a permit is required to visit them. The actual gazetted Canning Stock Route Reserve itself is
generally about 8 kilometres wide. In the main, the vehicular track that you
follow stays within the Reserve. However, there are a number of locations
where the track itself is actually outside of, the gazetted
Reserve. At times, it is up to 10 kilometres outside it.
This should not however cause any difficulties, provided you remain
on the track itself, and do not deviate from it unless you have an
appropriate Permit. If you simply wish to travel the Canning Stock Route
itself, and have no intention whatever of deviating from it, (and that
includes for the purposes of camping at night, and collecting water from
any of the wells, etc. located off the track), then you can do so without
the need for a permit. However, the
moment you actually leave the vehicular track, you run the risk of entering
an Aboriginal Site. The best course
of action therefore is to apply for, and be in possession of a Permit that
covers you for all of the areas that you may wish to visit. The Australian
National Four Wheel Drive Council website (www.anfwdc.asn.au)
currently has up to date information relating to the new requirements for
the Canning. And, from 1 May, 2007,
the Council, via its website, is the main point of contact both for
information, and for the issuing of Permits. The website has download material
available; including a listing of those areas where public access will be
permitted, and those where it may be restricted, together with an on-line
Permit application and payment process. The Permit, its attached conditions
and an information package will be available for download and printing once
your purchase is approved. If you
would prefer the
package to be mailed to your address, there will be additional postage
charges to be added to the purchase. Current prices are $50 per vehicle
Permit and $15 postage for the package if it is to be mailed to an address
within Australia. Postage outside Australia is
$27. Permits are valid for a one
month period. When you log on to the ANFWDC website, there is a red (Canning Stock Route)
button on the lower right hand side of the home page. Click on the button and you will be taken
to the Permit Application pages.
Just below the red button there is an “Access Update”
which will take you to the most recently updated information. It is suggested that you have a look at
the update before you go to the Permit application process. If you require
any further information about the conditions that now apply along the
Canning Stock Route, or if you want to discuss any proposed plans with an
expert, and the information you require is not available on the
ANFWDC website, there are two (2) contact points: For any additional information
between Wells 1 to 15, (Wiluna and Birriliburu areas), you can contact Lisa Maher, Senior
Project Officer, Central Desert Native Title Services in Perth on telephone
(08) 9425 2000 or fax (08) 9425 2001.
Their postal address is: P.O.
Box Y3439, East St. Georges Terrace, Perth, WA
6832. The street address is: Lower
Ground Floor, 170 Wellington
Street, East Perth, WA, 6004. Lisa’s email address is: lisamaher@centraldesert.org.au
For additional information and assistance between Wells 15 to 40,
(the Martu area), including applications for
Permits to visit the Calvert
Ranges, you can
contact Terry Morgan of the Western Desert Lands Aboriginal Corporation on
mobile 0429 965 720 or email him at
terrymorgan1951@yahoo.com.au
N.B.: Do not apply to the Ngaanyatjarra Council in Alice
Springs for a Permit in relation to the Canning Stock Route.
Steep Point: Steep Point, the westernmost point on mainland Australia,
is located on private property. A Ranger,
with some powers, has been appointed by the property owners, and is
resident in a cottage on the major access track. You can’t miss it going in, there
is a big sign advising all travelers to report to the Ranger Station. In 2008, a day trip cost $22 per vehicle,
payable at the Ranger Station. Entry
fees for camping were $22 per vehicle plus $5.50 per person per night.
Camping sites are located on and behind many of
the
beaches. The ranger can point you in
the right direction depending on bookings and wind direction. A trip from Hamelin Pool
Caravan Park
and Telegraph Station (08 9942 5905) to Steep Point and return can easily
be completed in a day. As long as you get an early start you will have
ample time to savour the views, take photos, and perhaps
return via the Zuytdorp Cliffs. Make
sure you have an operating air compressor with you as you MUST lower your
tyre pressures to 20 psi when you come to the first sand dunes, and you
will need to put them back to your normal dirt road pressures when you
exit. The Rangers at Steep Point
(Paul and Pam) can be contacted on 08 9948 3993.
Northern
Territory
(See also the paragraph regarding the “intervention” in
the NT in the first part of this article titled “Heading Outback
– Do I Need a Permit?”)
For transit permits across aboriginal lands in the northern areas
contact the Northern Land Council.
Their Head Office is in Darwin,
whilst the Darwin/Daly Area Office is at Palmerston
in Darwin.
They also have offices at Jabiru for West Arnhem,
Katherine for the South Region and Nhulunbuy for East Arnhem.
Offices are also located at Ngukurr,
Tennant Creek and at Timber Creek.
The Head
Office postal address is GPO Box 1222, Darwin, NT 0801 and the
street address is 45 Mitchell
Street, Darwin, NT 0801. Telephone (08) 8920 5100. Fax is (08) 8945 2633. You can download
lots of good information, including Permit Application Forms from their web
site at
www.nlc.org.au; use the “Visiting Aboriginal Lands”
button. Click on
“Contacts” for all other addresses and contact details. For
central area permits including the Mereenie Loop Road
(which cost $2.50 per vehicle), contact the Central Land Council,
31-33 Stuart Highway, Alice Springs, NT 0870 or PO Box 3321, Alice Springs,
NT 0871. Telephone (08) 8951 6211 or Fax (08) 8953 4343. Again, you can download lots of good info
and Permit Application Forms from their web site at www.clc.org.au. Permits to travel the Mereenie Loop Road
can also be obtained from the Glen Helen Camping Area Office and from the
service station at Kings
Canyon. You also need
to apply to the
Central Land Council for a permit to transit the Docker River Road
from west of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Park boundary to the WA border via the Docker River Community.
(This is the second of the two permits needed when transiting the Docker River
Road.
For the other permit see under WA, Central Reserves Area above).
Please note that permits to transit the Colson Track from
the
French Line in the Simpson Desert to Numery Station are simply not being issued. (Again, this is due to past problems with
damage caused to a number of sacred sites contained within the aboriginal
land through which the track runs).
For permits to access the Coburg Peninsula
and to camp there, you need to contact the Coburg
Peninsula Sanctuary and Marine Park Board, Permits Office, PO Box 496, Palmerston, NT
0831. Telephone (08) 8999 4814 or
Fax (08) 8999 4524. A weeks camping
(7 nights) at Coburg
will cost you (in 2008) the princely sum of $232.10 per vehicle containing
up to five (5) passengers. If you
have a
Troopy for example, and it is licensed to carry more than five passengers,
it will be an extra $11 per person carried (above five) per week. Permits are only sold by the week so if
you wanted to stay for say 8 nights, it would cost
you another $232.10. Note also that
as at March, 2008, there are absolutely no commercial activities operating
at Coburg. The Gurig Store
is closed till further notice. This
means
that absolutely no supplies whatever are available at Coburg. The fishing and boat hire charter
business has also closed and that means that the commercial boat tours to
Victoria Settlement are no longer available. Visitors therefore need to be totally
self sufficient for their entire stay, and, if you want to visit Victoria
Settlement you will need your own boat.
Coburg Cottages which had a small
number of quite comfortable cottages for rent has also closed. The Ranger Station is of course still
open and operating. Check with the
Sanctuary and Marine Park Board as to the current status of commercial
activities when you apply for your permit. If you would like to experience
and explore the delights of the Gove
Peninsula, you will
need a permit from the Northern Land Council to traverse the Central Arnhem Road
to access Nhulunbuy. You can camp for a night in a few
nominated spots on the Central
Arnhem Road as the distance to Nhulunbuy is in excess of 700 k’s. Some of these small sites charge camping
fees of around $15 per night per vehicle.
There is however, one free location.
All
the
locations are shown on the mud map of the Central Arnhem Road which you will
receive with your permit. The Mainoru Roadhouse,
(08 8975 4390) which is located on the Central Arnhem Road about 220 kilometres from Katherine, just outside the boundary of
the aboriginal land, also offers camping at $20 per vehicle per night with
a limit of 4 persons per vehicle, anything above that and additional
charges apply. If you are on your
lonesome, it’s only $10 per night.
The camping area is a grassed, shady site down behind the Roadhouse
on the banks of a quite large creek. It’s a pretty good site in
comparison to the others. Campers
have access to a flush loo and a cold
shower. Camping at the Roadhouse
breaks the 700 kilometre trip into two easy
legs. Whilst the locals generally
drive the Central Arnhem Road
in one day, that is not advisable for first time visitors. If the Roadhouse telephone doesn’t
answer for some reason, try Mainoru Station which
is about 17 kilometres inland from the Roadhouse
on 08 8977 4107. Once you arrive at Nhulunbuy,
you must gain a Recreation Permit to visit and camp at most locations where
camping is permitted. The permits,
which cost $25
per
person, are valid for a 2 month period.
Some special environmentally monitored camp sites are also available
at an additional cost of $15 per vehicle and are valid for 5 days. One other special site is also available
at a cost of $15 per vehicle per night.
Advance bookings for this site are essential. Recreation Permits are
available (on a personal visit basis only) from the Dhimurru
Aboriginal Corporation, PO Box
1551, Nhulunbuy,
NT 0881. Telephone
(08) 8987 3992 or fax (08) 8987 3224.
If you also wish to access Yirrkala, then
you will need to write to the Yirrkala Dhanbul Community Association Inc., CMB
1, Yirrkala,
NT 0880. Telephone (08) 8987 3433 or fax (08) 8987
2304. No camping is available
anywhere within the Yirrkala area.
To gain a permit to visit the Gove Peninsula
you MUST also book at least your first nights accommodation at one of the
two commercial accommodation operators at Nhulunbuy. And, as the Land Council Office is not
open over the weekend, you will need to book 2 nights accommodation if you
intend to arrive on the Saturday. The cheaper accommodation in town is the
very comfortable Gove Peninsula Motel, PO Box 314, Nhulunbuy,
NT 0881. Telephone (08)
8987 0700. The cost in 2008 was
$143.00 per double room. The only
other accommodation is the Walkabout Lodge and Tavern on 08 8987 1777.
Please also note that the Northern Land Council, under strict instructions
from the dozens of affected traditional owners, are simply NOT issuing
permits to transit the unnamed track which runs primarily west/east across
Arnhem Land from Oenpelli, past Gumadeer, Maningrida and
Ramingining, and then turns south to link up with the Central Arnhem Road.
Also, the Central Land Council are NOT issuing permits to transit the Wiso Track (also known as the Warrego
Mine Road) which runs from Tennant Creek to Lajamanu,
as they consider it impassable.
However, permits to transit the NT section of the Sandy Blight
Junction Track are once again being issued, but no camping is permitted
anywhere along the NT section of the Track. (Also see the comments on the
Sandy Blight Junction Track under WA above).
For permits to travel the Hay River
area north from Poeppell Corner to Jervois Station (on the Plenty
Highway), contact Jol Fleming at Direct
4WD Awareness at Alice Springs on (08)
8952 3359. Permit numbers are strictly
limited each year to ensure the area remains unspoilt. Bush tucker tours are available en route
at Batton Hill Camp courtesy of Lindsay Bookie,
Chairperson of the Central Land Council, or a member of his family. This is a “must do”!
All of the Parks and Reserves in the NT under the control of the
Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern
Territory have free access, but most charge
modest camping fees for an overnight stay.
Some have Ranger Stations, whilst others have self registration
processes in place. The NT Parks and
Wildlife Commission can be contacted at PO Box 496, Palmerston,
NT 0831. Telephone (08)
8999 4555 or fax (08) 8999 4558. Bear in mind also that neither Uluru nor Kakadu
National Parks fall
under the control of the NT Parks and Wildlife Commission. Access to Kakadu
is now free, however a
camping fee of $5.40 per person per night is charged in the Park run
camping areas, (in 2008). The
commercially run sites charge considerably more, usually around $25-$30 per site
per night. Kakadu
can be contacted on (08) 8938 1120. Uluru still charges both an entry fee
and camping fees in 2008. The
camping fees for an unpowered site are $14.50 per person per night for one
or two adults, plus
$13.00 per night for any additional adults. Children under 16 are $7.50 each per
night. Powered camping sites are
available at $17.00 per person per night. Camping is only available at the
camping area at Voyages Ayers Rock Resort Camping Area who can be contacted
on 08 8957 7001. The cheapest Park
entry fee is $25 per person for 3 days.
However, if you have a Transit Permit for the Docker River Road,
and are entering the Park for the sole purpose of your transit, then no
entry fee is required to be paid.
Your Permit will however be inspected and you will be told that you
are
not
permitted to stop within the Park.
Uluru Park Service can be contacted on (08) 8956 2299. If you are
traveling the Savannah Way
from Borroloola to Burketown
ensure you carry sufficient fuel for your
journey as both the Wollogorang and Hells Gate
Roadhouses are now closed. The only
fuel available on that trip is at Doomadgee. Hours of fuel availability at Doomadgee may also be unreliable.
South
Australia
For travel over aboriginal lands in the northern part of South Australia,
which includes for example, the Giles-Mulga Park Road from Kulgera to Wingellina,
contact the Anangu Pitjantjatjara/Yankunyjatjara
Land Council on telephone (08) 8954 8104 or fax (08) 8954 8110. But bear in mind that currently the Land
Council does not normally issue transit permits for that part of the Giles-Mulga Park
Road, nor for any of the other tracks in the
area. However, if you simply wish to
visit any of the very worthwhile art galleries located on AP-Y lands at Indulkana, Fregon, Amata and Papulankutja, then
it is strongly suggested that you simply contact the Manager of the
particular art gallery concerned.
The web site for
Amata
is www.minymakuarts.com.au and information on a
number of other art galleries in the area is available on www.marshallarts.com.au. If you do manage to gain a permit to
visit any of those areas you will find that it is the most beautiful
document you will ever have been issued. The permits are a work of
aboriginal art in themselves. To visit Surveyor-General’s
Corner, the normal access is from Warakurna on
the Great Central Road
down to Wingellina (where you pick up an
escort/guide) and then out to the Corner.
Applications for permits are made to the Ngaanyatjarra
Land Council – see under WA above. For travel over aboriginal lands
in the central part of South
Australia, for example to traverse the Anne Beadell
Highway, contact the Maralinga Lands Council
at Maralinga Tjarutja Inc., Att. Permits Officer,
P.O. Box 435,
Ceduna, SA 5690.
Telephone (08) 8625 2946.
Their fax number is (08) 8625 3076. Also bear in mind that a range
of other permits are also required to travel the Anne Beadell
Highway, including a Desert Parks Pass (see below), or at least a permit to
access and camp in the Tallaringa Conservation
Reserve and one for the Unnamed Conservation Park. And very importantly, you will need a
pass for the Woomera Prohibited Area. As the Desert Parks Pass does not
include in its coverage the Unnamed
Conservation Park,
you will still need a permit for there even if you have a Desert Parks
Pass. Contact the Department for Environment
and Heritage, Outback Region, P.O.
Box 78, Port Augusta, SA 5700. Telephone (08) 8648 5300 and fax (08)
8648 5301. You must also have a permit to traverse and visit locations
within the Woomera Prohibited Area. Contact the Defence Support Centre, Att. Wally Broome, P.O. Box 157, Woomera, SA 5270. Telephone
(08) 8674 3370(which is a 24 hour number) and fax (08) 8674 3308. And, when
traveling through Mabel Downs Station which is located at the Coober Pedy
end of the Anne Beadell Highway, ensure
you observe the signs and leave all gates exactly as you find them. Permits
to travel the Mt Davies Track, which most maps show as running from
Anne’s Corner on the Anne
Beadell Highway north
west to Iltur, are also NOT being issued by the
Land Council. Apparently the track
has never been used since it was first put in by Len Beadell
in the 1960’s and in the main simply no longer exists.
South Australia is also very similar to WA in that many of their
parks require the payment of an entry fee.
Camping fees can also apply.
The SA Department for Environment and Heritage offers a very wide
range of Passes (with an equally wide range of costs) for entry into their
parks - (see their website address below).
From a four wheel driver’s perspective the best pass is the Desert Parks Pass. This
pass covers both entry fees and camping (where permitted) in the
following parks: Simpson Desert
Conservation Park; Simpson Desert Regional Reserve; Witjira
National Park; Innamincka Regional Reserve; Coongie Lakes National Park; Strzelecki Regional
Reserve; Lake Eyre National Park; Tallaringa
Conservation Park and Wabma Kadarbu
Mound Springs Conservation Park, (camping where permitted). But again note that the Desert Parks
Pass does not include the Unnamed Conservation Park.
The current cost (March, 2008) of a Desert Parks
Pass is $95 for 12
months. However, when you renew the
next year, the cost is then only $60, and renewals remain at the cheap rate
for the next following 2 years.
(N.B.: The cost of a Desert
Parks Pass
will rise to $105 on 1 April, 2008, with renewals rising to $65). When
purchasing a Desert
Parks Pass,
you get a lot more for your money than simply the Pass. You also receive a full information kit,
including a series of maps. Any updates are issued with renewals. So it does represent reasonable value for
money. Most of the parks covered by
the
Pass charge entry and/or camping fees.
Some examples would be: $37.50 for a two night stay at Coongie Lakes; $22.50 per park for a one night stay at
each of Witjira, Dalhousie and Lake
Eyre; and $12.50 for a one night stay in Tallaringa
Regional Reserve. So two nights
spent at Coongie and a night each at the other
locations would cost a lot more than the 12 month Desert Parks Pass which
gives you unlimited visits and camping at all the locations covered. The
Department for Environment and Heritage Help Line in Adelaide is on 08 8204 1910. Their very helpful website is www.parks.sa.gov.au There is also a
Desert Parks Pass Hotline which is on freecall
1800 816 078.
To access Googs Track you will need a
Permit issued by the SA Department for Environment and Heritage at 11 McKenzie Street,
Ceduna, SA
5690. Their postal address is
PO Box 569,
Ceduna, SA 5690. Telephone (08) 8625 3144 and fax (08)
8625 3123. Permits (in 2008) cost $5
per night per vehicle. So a 3 night
stay will only cost you $15. Most of
Googs Track is now located within the Yumbarra
Conservation Park and the Yellabinna
Regional Reserve. Best camping areas are at Googs Lake
and at Mount Finke. You will get a small
information package and mud map with your permit.
South Australia also operates what they refer to as Public
Access Routes. These are mainly old stock
routes, most of which traverse private property or leasehold land. They have now been upgraded to the status
of tracks, and vehicular access is provided. No specific permits are required to
traverse these tracks, however where they are within, or give access to, a
National Park or Reserve, then a
permit may be required to both access and/or camp in the Park or
Reserve. Examples of these tracks
include both the Level Post Bay
and Halligan Bay Track within Lake Eyre National Park. A permit is required to access and camp
in the Park. The most recently
opened Public Access Route
that I am aware of is the Walker Crossing Track which runs from the Birdsville Track some 122 k’s
south of Birdsville through to Innamincka. To traverse the Bore Track which runs from
the Birdsville Track south to Bollards Lagoon
near Cameron Corner, a $10 per vehicle fee is payable at Bollards Lagoon
Homestead on your arrival.
Queensland
There are no major Land Councils or other such organizations in Queensland where
permits to transit or
visit
aboriginal areas might be generally obtainable. However, if you want some
general information regarding aboriginal lands and any general
requirements, particularly the liquor laws, contact the Office of
Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Affairs on (07) 3224 2111. The telephone number for the Cairns
Regional Office which has responsibility for the Cape York Region is (07)
4039 8177.
From my experience however, it is simply a matter of contacting the
particular community and ascertaining their requirements. Camping fees generally apply at most
communities where camping is available.
The fees seem to range from about $5 per vehicle per night up to
about $30 per night. Others charge
an entry permit of about $30 per week.
There may also be a small per night camping fee on top of that. Again, the Exploroz
website can be very helpful, and the Hema Maps of
the area also contain contact details for the various communities. For areas on the west coast north of Weipa, contact the Weipa Caravan Park
on (07) 4069 7871. The only permit currently required to access the tip of Cape York is one from the Injinoo people. This is however included in the cost of
the ferry across the Jardine River.
A small information booklet is also normally provided. Currently, (March,
2008), the ferry trip will cost $88 for your vehicle and an additional $11
for a trailer. However, a new
Injinoo Council takes office later in March, 2008, and it is highly likely
that there may be an increase in ferry charges. The ferry charges include your return
trip, so make sure you keep your ticket.
Be warned that the old vehicle crossing is now too deep to cross. The Jardine
Ferry shop can be contacted on 07 4069 1369 for up to date charges. Camping at the very nice camping ground
adjacent to the ferry and shop on the south bank of the Jardine
is available at $5 per person per night as at March, 2008. Some contact details for camping at the
Tip include: Loyalty
Beach 07 4069 3372; Seisia Camping Ground 07 4069 3243 and Punsand
Bay 07 4069 1722. As
far as I can ascertain, there are no annual or other permits generally
available from the Queensland
Parks and Wildlife
Service, which is a Division of the Qld
Environment Protection Agency.
The Parks and Wildlife Service has a Customer Service Centre which
can be contacted on 1300 130 372.
The Environment Protection Agency can be contacted on telephone (07)
3227 8186. Their website is at www.epa.qld.gov.au Camping charges
are levied for all Qld
National Parks and State Forests. Generally, the charge is
$4.50 per person per night. If you
are visiting any of the more popular National Parks or State Forests,
particularly during any busy season or school holidays, it is highly
advisable to book well ahead. It is a real pain I know, but you will need
to know the exact dates of your visit to do so. Ballot systems may also apply, so check
it out well in advance. A booking
service for all of the more popular National Parks and State Forests
is available on telephone 13 13 04. Vehicle Entry
Permits, which cost $35.40 and are valid for a one month period, are
required for Fraser Island and Moreton Island. Camping fees of $4.50 per person per
night and ferry charges also apply.
On Bribie
Island, as well as
camping fees of $4.50 per person per night, a weekly Vehicle Entry Permit
to the National Park also applies at $33.90. A self registration process for camping
fees might also be available at Bribie
Island. For the more
remote national parks you will either need to call into the appropriate
Ranger Station to book your camp site and pay your fees, or in some cases,
for example in Cape Melville and Lakefield, self registration requirements
apply, which includes the camping fee of $4.50 per night per person.
Tasmania
Entry fees and camping fees apply in all Tasmanian National
Parks. A range of entry permits are
available; In 2008 a daily permit
for a 24 hour period is $22 per vehicle; a Holiday Pass is available for a
2 month period for $56; and an Annual All Parks Permit is available for $66
Low Season purchase or $90 High Season purchase – concession rates
are available for the All Parks Permit. Camping fees vary markedly in
cost. They can range between $6 per
couple per night, to $15 per family per night, and up to $45 per couple per
night depending on: the facilities offered within the Park; whether the
area you intend to stay in is run by the Park Service or a commercial
operator; and of course whether you want a
powered or unpowered site or simply a tent site. In peak periods, some of
the Parks operate a ballot
system due to demand, so you may need to apply many months ahead of the
anticipated date of your visit. Out
of peak season however, some of those same areas simply operate self
registration systems. So check the website
which is noted below. The Tasmania
National Parks Visitor Information Service is contactable Monday to Friday
on 1300 135 513. The direct number
for the Park Entry section is 03 6233 2621. Their very informative web site
is at www.parks.tas.gov.au. Their postal address
is Parks and Wildlife Service, GPO Box 1751, Hobart, Tas. 7001.
Victoria
There are no areas in Victoria
where any form of aboriginal permit entry system operates. However, in a number of the more popular
national parks and conservation areas entry fees and/or camping fees apply.
In winter, the costs increase in those parks where snow areas and/or ski
resorts operate. For example a day
entry pass (summer) in Mount
Buffalo is $10, but
in winter a day pass is $14. Other
Parks charge similar amounts for the summer entry cost. A few others are considerably cheaper.
They also have a system of Annual Parks Passes
and Multi Day Passes
for a number of National Parks:
Wilson’s Promontory, ($50 Annual - $15.80 for a 2 consecutive day pass);
Mount Buffalo,
($51.50 Annual - $15.80 for 2 consecutive days); and Mornington Peninsula ($23.50 Annual). These offer considerable savings over day
passes if you are planning on multiple entries. A National
Parks Pass
is also available covering multiple entries to the following Parks: Wilsons Promontory; Mount
Buffalo; Mornington Peninsula;
Baw Baw; and Yarra Ranges. Cost is $70.50 in 2008 for a 12 month
period from the date of purchase. Day passes are available from the Parks
themselves, as are the Multi Day and Annual Passes. The National Parks Pass is also available
from Parks Victoria Information Centre on phone 13 19 63. Camping fees,
which vary from park to park, also apply in many National Parks regardless
of whether or not an entry fee is payable.
For example, camping in Grampians
National Park is
$12.50 per vehicle per night. A second vehicle on the same site costs an
additional $5.30 per night.
Some good information is available from the Parks Victoria web site
at www.parkweb.vic.gov.au and click on
“Parks and Reserves”.
New
South Wales
In our home state, there are no aboriginal permit requirements that
I am aware of, however, a number of
our
National Parks and Reserves (about 10% of them, which includes most of the
more popular Parks) do levy an entry fee.
And, in some there is also an overnight camping fee. If you are in the habit of spending quite
a few nights away in our own national parks, or you visit a number each
year where charges are levied, then you might want to consider a National
Park Annual Pass. They are available from a number of outlets, including Royal National Park and from the National
Park Shop located in Cadman’s Cottage at Circular Quay. They can be bought to cover a 1 or 2-year
period. By way of
examples: an All
Parks Annual
Pass including
Kosciuszko is $190 per annum or $335 for a 2-year pass;
excluding Kosciuszko reduces the rates to $65 and $115. Single
Park and Multi Park
Passes are also
available. They can also be ordered on-line via the NP&WS website
– see below. Daily rates of admission can be reasonably high. Rates vary from a general minimum of $7
per vehicle to $11 per vehicle. Sydney Harbour National Park and Burragorang State Conservation Area are only $3 per
vehicle. Oxley Wild
Rivers National
Park does have some special entry costs to
particular areas which can be up $25 per day. During the skiing season a day entry to Kosciuszko National Park is $27 whilst for the
rest of the year it is $16. The
website contains all the details. The New South Wales National Parks &
Wildlife Service website is: www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au And of course if you enjoy driving on the
sand dunes at Stockton Beach, then you will need your Recreational Vehicle
Area Permit for such activities.
These are available at a number of outlets in and around Newcastle,
including the Birubi Beach Service Station, Gan Gan Road, Anna Bay (02
4982 2201) and the Birubi Beach Caravan Park in
James Patterson Street, Anna Bay (02 4982 1263). They are also available at Out of Town
4WD at Barnsley (02 4953 3288), and at the Metro Lavis Service Station, Nelson Bay Road, Williamtown, (opposite Lavis
Lane which is one of the entry points to Stockton Beach). The Metro Lavis
can be contacted on 02 4965 0401, and is probably the closest location for
persons from Sydney. The minimum three day permit costs $10
per vehicle, and a 12 month permit costs $30. (N.B.: The Recreational Vehicle Area at Stockton, together
with some other nearby areas has recently been handed over by the Port
Stephens Shire Council to the National Parks and Wildlife Service. They in
turn are to hand some of the area back to the aborigines. So in the not too distant future there
may be some changes occurring in relation to the current access processes
at Stockton).
The 3 kilometres or so of public beach access
from Saddlington
Drive in Hawks Nest to Lemon Tree requires an
annual pass issued by the local Council.
They are available at a cost of $45 (June to June) from the Tea
Gardens Visitor Information Centre, Myall Street,
Tea Gardens or from the Hawks Nest News agency.
Currently, (March, 2008) the beach run within Myall Lakes National Park
is only open from Lemon Tree to Little Gibber. The rest of the beach, both north and
south is closed till further notice.
Permits (which are essentially your National Park entry fee), are
available either on a daily basis at $7 each or $22 for a 12 month period
from date of purchase. They are
obtainable from the same locations as the
Council Permit above, and from the Booti Booti National Park Office. The beach area is very much subject to
erosion from wind and tidal action and is subject to closure from time to
time. So if you are planning a visit
it would be well worthwhile ringing the National Park Area Office which is
located within Booti Booti
National Park on 02 6591 0300 to ascertain the latest information.
General
Don’t forget, if you are dealing with a National Park Service
or any Government Agency, and you have a Seniors Card or a Pension Card of
some description, always ask whether a Seniors
Discount is available. In most cases
the answer is, yes!
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this article,
no responsibility can be accepted for either the accuracy of the contents
or for any errors or omissions. With your assistance we might also endeavour to maintain this information in an updated
form. So if you wish to amend, or
add to any of the information contained in this article, please contact the
undersigned on (02) 9523 9266 or email at john.greig@bigpond.com
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